There is a reason that you can find an Irish pub in every city in the world, and only in Dublin can you discover why. We speak to local expert Keith McGovern from the Perfect Pint Tour about the history of Irish hospitality and what makes a great Irish pub.

We’ve all heard about the warmth of Irish hospitality – what makes it so special?
“The story of Irish hospitality goes back to the seventh century with Brehon law – the laws which governed everyday life in Gaelic Ireland. It meant that if you were an upstanding member of society, it was written into law that you had to provide shelter, food and drink to anyone passing through your premises. In other words, hospitality, or ‘oigidecht’, was a legal duty.

“That’s the breeding ground of Irish hospitality – we’re not necessarily known for our food or our drink, but we’re known for our ‘céad míle fáilte’, which means a hundred thousand welcomes. In Ireland I find if you go into a pub you’re met with ‘how are you, what can I get you?’, whereas elsewhere you’re met with ‘what do you want?’. That friendliness is why there’s an Irish pub in every country in the world; it’s trying to recreate that atmosphere.”

What role does the pub play in Irish culture?
“In Ireland, pubs are like community centres. We go there to socialise; we eat there more than we do in cafes and restaurants; we go there for good news and bad news, for weddings, parties and funerals. That fact that alcohol is there is really just a bonus for us – that’s different to England, Scotland, Wales and mainland Europe, where they go for alcohol and everything else is the bonus.”

So, if I walk into a traditional pub in Dublin, what should I expect?
“There are very different kinds of pubs you’ll find across Dublin: Victorian pubs; family-run pubs; heritage pubs; traditional Irish music pubs. However, the number one thing is the welcome. You walk in the door, the people are welcoming, the pub is nice and warm, the lights and the music are at the right level. The clientele too, they will come over and say hello and ask where you’re from, and that knocking elbows with the locals is what it’s all about.”

Where should I go to try the best Guinness in Dublin?
“You have to go to John Kavanagh’s, it’s the home of the best-tasting pint of Guinness in the world, and it’s a ninth-generation family-run pub, which is pretty special. Brannigan’s on Cathedral Street is also a hidden gem for Guinness; it’s my favourite pint in the city. It’s all about taste and temperature, clean glasses, and less than 12 feet in a beer line.”

Which pubs have the most interesting stories behind them?
“Ryan’s at Parkgate Street is the best example of one of our Victorian era pubs – there are only 16 left. It is so special that both the front and the inside are listed as a heritage site. There’s Cleary’s on Amiens Street, which would have been Michael Collins’ pub, the famous Irish leader, and the Cobblestone, famous for its traditional Irish music every night. But all pubs matter; people will tell you not to go to Temple Bar, but I tell everyone to go. You’re not going there just for a drink; you’re going there for the atmosphere. It’s like going to New York and not seeing Times Square.”

And what sort of food do you get in Irish pubs?
”Everyone comes for the fish and chips and beef and Guinness stew, but everyone is missing a trick with our pork chops and particularly our steak. We have some incredible fell-fed cows because of how green our grass is with the rain, and we have some great steakhouses, such as Hawksmoor.

“For fish and chips, I tell people to go to Leo Burdock’s. It’s a proper takeaway, you get it in the old newspaper style wrapping, and it’s Bruce Springsteen’s favourite, he comes for a week every year.”

Are there more contemporary bars in Dublin too?
“There’s a place called BAR 1661 which just won bar of the year again in Ireland, and they do a lot of swaps with bars around the world. They’ll send their staff to The Dead Rabbit in New York, their staff will come here and they’ll bring their cocktail menus with them. They also own The Sackville Lounge, famous for its Belfast Coffee, which is an Irish coffee made with Poitín, which is Irish moonshine.”

What’s the best way to get a flavour for Dublin’s pubs?
"With the Perfect Pint tour, we run several different tours that allow you to discover the best Irish pubs that Dublin has to offer, as well as learning about the histories and stories behind them. There’s our Perfect Pint tour, four pints of Guinness in four iconic pubs. We also offer tours coupled with traditional Irish food pairings, or with a visit to the Guinness Storehouse. For whiskey lovers, we have the Guinness and whiskey package, with an Irish coffee masterclass and a six-course whiskey tasting menu from Derek King, one of the top five minds on Irish whiskey.”